Halloween Swell 2010

Well I finally have a decent picture of me body boarding. During the Halloween Swell of 2010  I met a group of guys with a disposable water camera who wanted me to take pictures of them surfing. So I gave up about an hour of one of the best swells of the year to give surf photography a shot. Sadly none of my shots came out really well (sorry guys) but it wasn't a waste, I had a ton of fun and learned a lot from the experience; also they returned the favor and one of them, a guy named Philip Purvis, snapped the following picture of me (awesome shot... thanks).

Notice how well the wave is pitching over... sadly no great tubes to report from this session. The wave before this was was head high and pitching beautifully and if I'd thought to pull back on my board and stall a little I might have gotten a good tube out of it, but sadly I've been in so few waves of this quality that the idea of  stalling to get into a tube didn't occur to me.

The good news is that the following weekend the swell was even better with these big bowl shaped waves that broke from either side. That session I caught my first big tube as the middle of the wave I was riding closed out over me in slow motion, thundering with a cavernous rumble. I'd caught some small tubes from time to time, but now I finally get what the big deal is all about... totally awesome experience.

Anyway, stay stoked,
DH