1. It's one of the safest places in the world to surf (see previous post).
- Surely not having a high likelihood of dying or being cripple for life is a bonus.
- People who live in places where everyday is a great surf day really take it for granted. If you surf in Jacksonville you really love surfing and you learn to appreciate even the crappiest swell that comes your way.
- Short, fast, inconsistent, unpredictable waves are the norm. Those who catch waves consistently here learn to read them well and they push hard and fast to get them.
- In some of the more consistent spots in the world you find tons of people who give up girl friends, family, college, careers and nearly ever thing else because all they care about is the next great wave. Part of me understands the allure, the sirens call, the addictive nature of surfing but fortunately for me that's not an issue here... there aren't enough great waves to fill up your life with. In Jacksonville you're forced to fill up your life with life.
- Those few days a year when it's going off the waves are breaking great all up and down the coast. In fact the traditional surf spots are the last place you want to be on those days; they're over crowded with kooks and locals who don't know any better. Pick a spot nearly anywhere else, paddle out and be prepared for a killer 3 hour drift session that keep you stoked for at least another year. Feast or famine... that's Jacksonville. Learn to love it.
DH
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